Ramzan Eats 2019 - Part 1
We decided that evening Friday, 24 May would be the day for exploring Ramzan treats. Knowing fully well that the Minara Masjid lane would be full jam packed with Instagram foodies, we made a conscious decision to avoid that area for this time around., and instead decided to focus mostly on the Bohri Mohalla area for enjoying Ramzaan food. A bit about Bohri Mohalla first - it is an area of narrow lanes on the western side of the JJ Flyover. The area (or mohalla) is eponymous with the people who have shops here, or come here to worship in the masjids here - the Bohras. The food stalls here have been around for ages and used to be mostly frequented in Ramzan by people who came here after immediately breaking the fast or after their late evening prayers.
In addition to the regular favorites (Haji Tikka, Idris, Taj Ice cream, Tawakkal Sweets, 12 Handi), I wanted to see what else we could try around in terms of new food options. So here is how we went around :
1. Sarvi Kebab:
Located at Byculla, bang opposite the Nagpada Police Station, Sarvi is one of those establishments that time has passed by. If you enter it from the JJ Flyover Side, you will see a restaurant whose front entrance would be more suited in 1950's movie - reminding one of a poor neighborhood. However once you pass inside, you can walk into a more modern section. It also has a AC section. I had come here wanting to try the Paya - which i had heard (incorrectly ) that is available only during the Ramzan months. As it turns out, the restaurant does not have anything outside of the menu during months of Ramzan. A bit disappointed, we decided to order something nonetheless.
The Paya Soup was a hearty concoction of Paya (Trotters) and a tasty, tangy gravy that is quite a tame red in color, but can light up the palette quite nicely thank you. The consistency of the soup is a little thinner as compared to other fine dine places like say Urban Tadka or other more well known buffet places. We split 2 soups 3 ways, and even that went quite a fair bit in filling our tummies. This was followed by 2 plates of Beef kebabs (Water buffalo of course) with Parathas. The parathas at Sarvi are a bit different. Made of regular maida dough, they are deep fried and therefore a lot crunchier than regular baked Parathas. Rolling the kebabs with the Parathas, along with their house green chutney, with a dash of mint leaves and onions make for one hell of a combination, that satisfied the deep desire for well cooked red meat.
Bill for 3 : - Around 600 Rs (including parcel of 1x Paya)
2. Charminar - Haleem
Charminar is a dine in restaurant in Grant road, quite well known to Mughlai food lovers of Mumbai. They usually open a Haleem stall at Minara masjid during Ramzaan. This was the first time they decided to open a delivery stall selling Haleem at Byculla. This stall is located bang opposite the Sarvi Restaurant. The Haleem was wonderfully stringy, just the right consistency - a proof of the fact that it contained just the right proportion of meat and grains, and that it was cooked to perfection. Mildly flavored, topped with birista, onions and with a dash of lemon, the haleem was just the right set off against the meal we had minutes before at Sarvi. The only grouse was that it was a little cold - possibly they had just put a new handa on the coals having just finished off the first one. Of all the places we had food at, this was the only Ramzaan special place, the rest being permanent establishments all round the year.
Cost of Haleem :- Rs. 100 per bowl. Toppings free.
3. Flames and Grill (atleast thats what i remember the name as ....) - Chapli Kabab
While not on any list of to-visit places, this place serves an amazing Chapli Kabab. We discovered it quite by accident ...as we were walking towards Bohri mohalla from Sarvi. We saw the sign board of Chapli kabab and walked in. The place can seat a few, rather uncomfortably though. We had only 1 Chapli kabab between the 3 of us. A Chapli kabab is basically mince meat mixed with multi grain flour (like the Maharashtrian Thaalipeeth), shaped into a patty and fried. This version came with a topping of nalli (or bone marrow). Piping hot, served along with the mandatory green chatni and onions, the chapli kebab was something totally different, and unexpected. Imagine eating the meat patty of a meat burger, which is twice as thick, about 1.5 times larger, having a lot more meat kheema and multiple times character, flavor and taste, and you have got the Chapli kebab.
Cost : Rs. 100 per kebab
4. Surti 12 Handi - The Handi
The 12 handi is a legend in itself. Apparently made of multiple pots (12 as per name, 9 as per practical wisdom), each pot consisting of different parts of body, and mixed as per your choice, the final dish is an amazing concoction. Served with a huge Roti (not kidding), the 12 handi filled whatever little pockets in our tummy that were not filled in.
Cost : Rs. 1000 for 4 dishes.
5. Imam Sharbatwala :
Imam sharbat wala is the guy selling sharbat in a large Vessel. You will find him at the corner of the 12 handi lane and the Haji Tikka lane. He serves the most amazing milk sharbet topped with fresh watermelon. A perfect top up to all the hot meaty dishes we had so far. He is also available all round the year till about 10.00 pm
Cost: Rs. 40 per full glass.
6. Tawakkal Sweets - Phirni and Dudhi halwa
For me Phirnis is traditionally had at Suleman Usman Mithaiwalla and nowhere else. However being too full and too tired to walk till Suleman Usman, we settled for the version at Tawakkal sweets. As someone who has been coming to eat Ramzan feast every year, I felt the prices of phirni have gone up quite more than the prices for milk. At Rs. 70 for a small bowl of normal and Rs. 90 for a bowl of Mango one, i think it is being overpriced. The Dudhi halwa was out of the world -creamy, and having just the right amount of sugar and melt in your mouth quality. The tummy did not allow for more than a couple of bites though, and this was it for the food.
At this point, our tummies were exploding and we could not eat another bite. However, we tried the khichda near Tawakkal sweets and could not finish even the small bowl. Part of the reason could be that it was a bit too salty for my liking.
Things we missed out : Haji Tikka corner, Idris coldrink, Malpuas and Mawa jalebis.
A Note to the Wise
The enormous success of Ramzan food has created a mad frenzy of food lovers, and instagrammers in the narrow lanes. While it is fun to eat in crowded places , and enjoy a mela kind of atmosphere, that fun is not for everyone. If crowds scare you, or make you nervous, please stay away. Also this area (and the minara masjid) is not made for fine dine. So , if street foods or dhaba kind of food gives you the Delhi belly just by looking at the conditions, please stay away - for your sake and for the sake of those who enjoy.
In addition to the regular favorites (Haji Tikka, Idris, Taj Ice cream, Tawakkal Sweets, 12 Handi), I wanted to see what else we could try around in terms of new food options. So here is how we went around :
1. Sarvi Kebab:
Located at Byculla, bang opposite the Nagpada Police Station, Sarvi is one of those establishments that time has passed by. If you enter it from the JJ Flyover Side, you will see a restaurant whose front entrance would be more suited in 1950's movie - reminding one of a poor neighborhood. However once you pass inside, you can walk into a more modern section. It also has a AC section. I had come here wanting to try the Paya - which i had heard (incorrectly ) that is available only during the Ramzan months. As it turns out, the restaurant does not have anything outside of the menu during months of Ramzan. A bit disappointed, we decided to order something nonetheless.
The Paya Soup was a hearty concoction of Paya (Trotters) and a tasty, tangy gravy that is quite a tame red in color, but can light up the palette quite nicely thank you. The consistency of the soup is a little thinner as compared to other fine dine places like say Urban Tadka or other more well known buffet places. We split 2 soups 3 ways, and even that went quite a fair bit in filling our tummies. This was followed by 2 plates of Beef kebabs (Water buffalo of course) with Parathas. The parathas at Sarvi are a bit different. Made of regular maida dough, they are deep fried and therefore a lot crunchier than regular baked Parathas. Rolling the kebabs with the Parathas, along with their house green chutney, with a dash of mint leaves and onions make for one hell of a combination, that satisfied the deep desire for well cooked red meat.
Bill for 3 : - Around 600 Rs (including parcel of 1x Paya)
2. Charminar - Haleem
Charminar is a dine in restaurant in Grant road, quite well known to Mughlai food lovers of Mumbai. They usually open a Haleem stall at Minara masjid during Ramzaan. This was the first time they decided to open a delivery stall selling Haleem at Byculla. This stall is located bang opposite the Sarvi Restaurant. The Haleem was wonderfully stringy, just the right consistency - a proof of the fact that it contained just the right proportion of meat and grains, and that it was cooked to perfection. Mildly flavored, topped with birista, onions and with a dash of lemon, the haleem was just the right set off against the meal we had minutes before at Sarvi. The only grouse was that it was a little cold - possibly they had just put a new handa on the coals having just finished off the first one. Of all the places we had food at, this was the only Ramzaan special place, the rest being permanent establishments all round the year.
Cost of Haleem :- Rs. 100 per bowl. Toppings free.
3. Flames and Grill (atleast thats what i remember the name as ....) - Chapli Kabab
While not on any list of to-visit places, this place serves an amazing Chapli Kabab. We discovered it quite by accident ...as we were walking towards Bohri mohalla from Sarvi. We saw the sign board of Chapli kabab and walked in. The place can seat a few, rather uncomfortably though. We had only 1 Chapli kabab between the 3 of us. A Chapli kabab is basically mince meat mixed with multi grain flour (like the Maharashtrian Thaalipeeth), shaped into a patty and fried. This version came with a topping of nalli (or bone marrow). Piping hot, served along with the mandatory green chatni and onions, the chapli kebab was something totally different, and unexpected. Imagine eating the meat patty of a meat burger, which is twice as thick, about 1.5 times larger, having a lot more meat kheema and multiple times character, flavor and taste, and you have got the Chapli kebab.Cost : Rs. 100 per kebab
4. Surti 12 Handi - The Handi
The 12 handi is a legend in itself. Apparently made of multiple pots (12 as per name, 9 as per practical wisdom), each pot consisting of different parts of body, and mixed as per your choice, the final dish is an amazing concoction. Served with a huge Roti (not kidding), the 12 handi filled whatever little pockets in our tummy that were not filled in.
Cost : Rs. 1000 for 4 dishes.
5. Imam Sharbatwala :
Imam sharbat wala is the guy selling sharbat in a large Vessel. You will find him at the corner of the 12 handi lane and the Haji Tikka lane. He serves the most amazing milk sharbet topped with fresh watermelon. A perfect top up to all the hot meaty dishes we had so far. He is also available all round the year till about 10.00 pm
Cost: Rs. 40 per full glass.
6. Tawakkal Sweets - Phirni and Dudhi halwa
For me Phirnis is traditionally had at Suleman Usman Mithaiwalla and nowhere else. However being too full and too tired to walk till Suleman Usman, we settled for the version at Tawakkal sweets. As someone who has been coming to eat Ramzan feast every year, I felt the prices of phirni have gone up quite more than the prices for milk. At Rs. 70 for a small bowl of normal and Rs. 90 for a bowl of Mango one, i think it is being overpriced. The Dudhi halwa was out of the world -creamy, and having just the right amount of sugar and melt in your mouth quality. The tummy did not allow for more than a couple of bites though, and this was it for the food.
At this point, our tummies were exploding and we could not eat another bite. However, we tried the khichda near Tawakkal sweets and could not finish even the small bowl. Part of the reason could be that it was a bit too salty for my liking.
Things we missed out : Haji Tikka corner, Idris coldrink, Malpuas and Mawa jalebis.
A Note to the Wise
The enormous success of Ramzan food has created a mad frenzy of food lovers, and instagrammers in the narrow lanes. While it is fun to eat in crowded places , and enjoy a mela kind of atmosphere, that fun is not for everyone. If crowds scare you, or make you nervous, please stay away. Also this area (and the minara masjid) is not made for fine dine. So , if street foods or dhaba kind of food gives you the Delhi belly just by looking at the conditions, please stay away - for your sake and for the sake of those who enjoy.
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